four fashion capitals speak in one bold, season-defining voice.
From New York’s poised minimalism to London’s raw romanticism, Milan’s intellectual eccentricity, and Paris’s poetic experimentation, the Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear collections unfolded as a season defined by contrasts and conversations. Khaite, Ulla Johnson, and Toteme set a polished New York narrative of restraint and refinement; Simone Rocha unveiled London’s unflinching romance with fragility and rebellion; while in Milan, Jil Sander, JW Anderson, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Sunnei sculpted eccentric elegance through sharp tailoring and playful innovation. Paris, ever the finale, offered an intoxicating crescendo—Cecilie Bahnsen’s sculptural femininity, Acne Studios’ coolly subversive modernity, Issey Miyake’s kinetic fluidity, and Maison Margiela’s theatrical subversion. Together, these voices map out a season that is less about fleeting trends and more about fashion’s power to create atmosphere, to set a tone, to provoke feeling.
KHAITE
Catherine Holstein’s SS26 collection blended structured tailoring with soft, artisanal details, from oversized leather jackets to sheer organza skirts. Glowing skin and low ponytails with gold cuffs completed a refined, ’90s-inspired New York glamour.
ULLA JOHNSON
Ulla Johnson's SS26 collection at New York Fashion Week showcased a vibrant palette inspired by nature and sunsets. The runway featured diaphanous fabrics, hand-dyed feathers, and a mix of structured tailoring with soft, artisanal details.
TOTEME
Totême redefines Scandinavian ease in SS26 with soft minimalism, clean lines and undone beauty. Trench coats, tanks and pajama-like sets unfold in lived-in fabrics and deconstructed tailoring. The result: a quiet elegance that breathes, where every detail feels measured and weightless.
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha SS26 channels delicate tension with crinoline dresses, trembling organza, and silver sequins. Printed florals and transparent vinyl peek through, balancing fragile romance with edgy details. Slouched shoulders, uneven hems, and domestic-chic touches make the collection feel alive, fragile, and irresistibly elusive.
JIL SANDER
Simone Bellotti's debut at Jil Sander redefines minimalism with sharp tailoring, sheer fabrics, and a striking contrast between electric hues and neutral tones. The collection features structured silhouettes, raw denim trousers, and tailored leather coats, layered with silk and subtle pleats, offering a grounded yet experimental aesthetic.
JW ANDERSON
JW Anderson Resort SS26 abandons the traditional runway, presenting a “cabinet of curiosities” in-store with fashion, artisanal objects, and homewares. Twisted classics in Japanese denim, Scottish knits, and English silk meet curated collaborations, from Murano glass to vintage furniture. The immersive experience, filled with personal touches and close collaborators, transforms shopping into storytelling, blending craft, lifestyle, and intimacy.
MM6 MAISON MARGIELA
MM6 Maison Margiela SS26 reimagines wardrobe staples with raw hems, transparent inserts, and trompe l’oeil cutaways. Models stroll with relaxed ease and sleek sunglasses, embodying the brand’s offhand, pragmatic spirit. Blousons, dresses, and capes crafted from garment bags mix everyday wear with avant-garde twists, balancing utility and art.
SUNNEI
Sunnei's SS26 collection reimagined fashion as performance, transforming the runway into a live auction in collaboration with Christie's. The show featured models in oversized silhouettes, deconstructed garments, and unexpected materials, challenging traditional fashion norms. This avant-garde approach blurred the lines between art, commerce, and fashion, marking a bold statement in the industry
CECILIE BAHNSEN
At Paris Fashion Week, Cecilie Bahnsen unveiled her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, "Heartfelt," transforming the runway into a poetic exploration of emotion and innovation. Presented at the Palais de Tokyo, the show featured garments infused with LED-lit hearts, pulsating beneath layers of silk plissé, broderie anglaise, and featherweight knits. This fusion of technology and tenderness underscored Bahnsen's commitment to emotional storytelling through fashion. The collection's ethereal silhouettes and luminous details invited viewers into a world where design transcends aesthetics, resonating deeply with the heart.
ACNE STUDIOS
At Paris Fashion Week, Acne Studios unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Girls and Boys,” exploring the fluid boundaries between masculine and feminine fashion. Presented at the historic Collège des Bernardins, the show featured oversized jackets, leather trousers, and ribboned trims, reimagining modern wardrobe silhouettes.
ISSEY MIYAKE
Issey Miyake presented its SS26 collection at Paris Fashion Week, exploring the idea of clothing as alive. Held at the Centre Pompidou, the show featured wrap styles, high-waisted trousers, and innovative materials that moved organically with the body, creating a living, sculptural experience.
MAISON MARGIELA
Maison Margiela presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week, marking a return to the brand's avant-garde roots. Under Glenn Martens’ direction, the show featured minimalist silhouettes, deconstructed tailoring, and a subdued color palette, while models wore the iconic four stitches in their mouths, adding a provocative signature touch. The runway was accompanied by a children’s orchestra, blending playfulness with poignant elegance.
